Exiled to Torbay: Devon’s Sun & Sport Climbing Mecca
News from the Crag by Nick B @tauntonleisure
If you don’t fancy sitting on a plane for hours on end and paying out a small fortune on travel, then why not visit one of the best sport climbing areas in the country? Just 40 minutes from the Quay is a climbing mecca with over 130 fully bolted routes, grades ranging from 5+ to 8c+ and less than a 10 minute walk in.
Of course – most of you will have guessed we are talking about Anstey’s cove, which is well documented and highly popular. But close by there are some lesser known venues and this month I’m going to take a peek at Exile Buttress with you. Exile Buttress is a shady little venue, particularly good on hot summer days as it is north easterly facing and also good for damp days as it is relatively sheltered. The venue has only recently been bolted so the rock is still a little sharp in places compared to well used limestone venues like Anstey’s but don’t let this put you off, the lack of polish is a refreshing change! The climbs range from 6a+ up to 7b+ with most routes being graded for the hard starts which then ease off somewhat. Favourite routes include: “Harlem Rude Boy” 6b (a tough groove which is very good and offers something very different to most indoor climbing), “Me and My Magnum” 7a (an excellent line, steep group on big holds finishing with a technical wall!), “Could Be Hardcore” (a tough crimpy start heading up to a bit pointy tooth following by a technical slabby finish – quality!).
If you don’t already own one, a Beta Climbing Clipstick is quite useful as most of the first botls are quite high and the starts tend to provide some of the most difficult climbing on the routes. Although Exile Buttress has only 6 bolted routes it is well worth searching out and a great change from the mostly steep and relenting climbing at Anstey’s.
Have a good month, and happy climbing, from Nick B @tauntonleisure – check out our July blog which will be featuring a little known bouldering site on Dartmoor…