Take it easy at Easdon Tor

News from the Crag by Nick B @tauntonleisure

Easdon Tor is rarely visited but is totally worth the trip – the setting (a 10 minute walk in) and ambience (some of the loveliest views on the moor) make it a great venue for an evening’s bouldering. It is a very compact circuit with little distance between the problems as it is all centred on a large central boulder.

If you can force yourself to drive past Bonehill and Hound Tor you will find Easdon a mere 1.5 miles further on! The problems are all of excellent quality – there may be only a handful but they are worth the trip. Landings are generally good but bring a few pads/spotters for number 1 as it could be classed as a short route. A brush would also be useful as there can be moss on some of the problems – although the most popular ones stay clean due to traffic

Here’s a summary of the best of the bunch – there’s plenty more to try on the ground! Enjoy…

Problem 1

Problem 1 is great but there is reasonable fall potential so take care when jumping off as the crux is at the top. If you don’t already own a bouldering mat then attempting this problem without one might persuade you it should be your next purchase! Scramble up on to the ledge – good holds lead you through the roof – then there’s a powerful move up to a poor slopey pinch (crux) and then pop for the finishing jug. Mantle/roll on to the ledge and slope off left. Highball V3/4

Easdon Slab

This is a classic slab problem. Use the two obvious crimps, get your feet up on to the slab(crux) and teeter to the top. Care needed on the step up as a foot pop can lead to shin/skin damage. V2 Easdon Crack This has to be a moorland classic and an essential tick on your granite climbing CV. Find a way of seating some good but painful/awkward finger locks in the crack, powerful moves to bring your feet up on to small crystals and some tricksy use of the crack higher up leads to a final big move to the holds above the top of the crack. The top out is ok and on decent holds but feels quite high. V5 Easdon Arete Another problem that is a must – we’d give it 5 stars for the moves and the line and it’s definitely a problem that can be worked to achieve success. Start on obvious pebble hold for the left hand and whatever feels good for the right, get stood up and throw a right heel out on to the obvious shelf. Grope upwards with the right hand to find some disappointing slopey things that you can’t really see but do work if you hit the right place! Pop the left hand up the arête a bit, eye ball the pebble/blob that seems a mile away and just go for it. If you can hold it a quick foot shuffle – this should see you able to move up and right to the jugs to top out. Awesome V7
Have a good month, and happy climbing, from Nick B @tauntonleisure – check out our August blog for more news of summer spots to try on the moor…